Going faster doesn’t have to be your only goal in cycling but it’s a very popular one. Professional racing and the public ledger of records and best times provide inspiration, as do Strava or the presence of quicker riders on the Sunday club run. But besides these going fast also satisfies a fundamental human need to see how far we can push ourselves.
So how do you get fast? Despite the cycling industry being geared towards selling you stuff catering to this desire there are only a few upgrades that will definitely make you go quicker.
Of these the most significant aren’t necessarily the most obvious. Rounded up here are a few pieces of kit that’ll actually boost your speed alongside some well-proven strategies to help make the most of the ability you have.
Things you can buy to make you go faster on a bike
Cycling speedsuits and skinsuits
Your body takes up a lot more space than your bike, meaning around four-fifths of aerodynamic drag is created by the rider.
It therefore makes sense to start here before tinkering elsewhere. The single most cost-efficient speed-boosting purchase you can make is a skinsuit, so if you really care about going fast you’ll need to overcome any fashion squeamishness.
Cutting down the number of seams, ripples, and zips, skinsuits smooth airflow over the rider and have been consistently shown to yield savings of between 20-30 seconds over the course of an hour riding at race pace.
Now de rigueur at professional events, they start from as little as £80, making them exceedingly good value.
bit of a statement of intent, most brands now also produce more relaxed options know as speedsuits. These are easier to get in and out of and feature pockets, all of which make them more convenient to use while more appearing ‘normal’.
Deep section aero wheels
The heavily marketed upgrade of choice, deep section aero wheels will make a significant difference, just probably not as much as a skinsuit, while costing much more.
Unless your bike is stupidly heavy, aerodynamics beat weight so look for width and depth over a minimum number of grams.
A depth of around 60mm is easy enough to handle in most conditions, and won’t add so much mass as to make them inefficient on hilly courses.
Carbon fairings are good, but don’t worry if the rim track is aluminium.
See related Aero rims vs lightweight rims
Decent tyres and latex inner tubes
Besides the air, another factor limiting speed is rolling resistance. Primarily taking place where the tyre meets the tarmac this is caused in two ways.
First energy is lost as the tyre is forced to deform as it contacts the road. A more supple tyre requires less effort to flex and so loses less energy.
The second effect is caused by the tyre bumping across the surface of the road and bouncing the rider around. Again a supple tyre dampens better.
In keeping with both principles, current thinking says wider tyres at lower pressures will roll faster. However whatever setup you use the tubes inside also affect the system’s efficiency.
Lighter and far more flexible, swapping standard butyl rubber tubes for latex will reduce resistance and weight at a cost of about £10 per wheel.
How many watts do latex tubes save? Probably no more than 4-5 between both wheels depending on your weight and conditions - still in the quest for speed that’s excellent value.
A professional bike fit
A well fitted bike will help get the maximum mechanical efficiency out of your body. After all an alloy crank correctly matched to your physique is going to be faster than a fancy carbon one in the wrong size.
It’ll improve comfort too, and if you want, also boost aerodynamic efficiency.
Potentially trumping any other upgrade, lower and narrower riding positions can make a big difference, but need to be carefully researched and are often uncomfortable to maintain.
Requiring a balance between cutting drag yet maintaining power they’re best achieved with the help of an experienced bike fitter.
See related Cyclist guide to bike fitting
Aero helmets
Until recently most helmets were designed purely with ventilation in mind. This meant their multiple vents would snag the air as it passed over the rider’s head.
This has all changed, with makers now giving aerodynamics greater attention. Although the difference is small, if you’re upgrading your helmet choosing one that’s fairly aero will likely be good for a couple of watts saved, and as aero lids are now typically well ventilated there’s little downside.
See related Buyer's guide: best aero helmets
Other bits and bobs
Unless it’s an absolute lump, saving weight is only of significant benefit on prolonged climbs. Also once the bike is at a decent level you’re better losing excess weight off your body anyway.
There are tons of other upgrades that could make you a little bit faster. Shoe covers, ceramic bearings, special chain lubes, flat-top handlebars.
However the return on your investment is small, so don’t get too hung-up on them.
Things you can do to go faster on a bike
Drafting
You need to stop thinking of the air as ethereal and start thinking of it as a thick soup. While on a calm day its presence barely registers as you roll along, increase speed and its resistance increases exponentially.
Tucking in behind a dragster on the Bonneville salt flats in 1995 Fred Rompelberg was able to clock a speed of 269 kilometres per hour by riding in the void it created.
The broad shoulders of the rider if front might not allow you to go quite as fast, but their effect shouldn’t be discounted.
How much energy can you save by drafting? Maybe around 10% of the energy you’d expend riding out front.
In a race you can instantly feel and hear the difference when you hang yourself out to dry. Pretend you’re a computer game character and every time you’re in the wind your life bar diminishes.
Keep it full all race and you can release that saved energy when you need it. Practise tucking in close to get maximum benefit.
Steady effort
Your body is like an engine with a certain amount of fuel in the tank. If you start revving away you’re going to burn fuel fast, you’ll be inefficient, and worse you could run out early.
In a race or important ride avoid making unnecessary efforts. If you have the choice resist the temptation to stomp every hill or sprint.
Although it makes for boring racing every pro now rides with an eye on their power output. Rather than chase down breaks the big teams have confidence that steadily crushing the race is the most efficient strategy.
Repeatedly going above the ideal effort level in your event will drain your reserves and lead to a slower overall time. Don’t get carried away.
Perceived effort can work, but a heart rate monitor or a power meter are ideal for keeping yourself in line.
Negative splits
All other factors being equal, in a time-trial or solo event it’s normally better to ride the second half quicker than the first.
The temptation is always to go off fast as any steady effort feels easier in the beginning. Set a target time for the event, divide it in half and don’t let yourself reach the midpoint before then, even if it means slowing down.
The most efficient place to expended any extra energy is towards the end. Just don’t leave it too late. A rider that finishes strong by definition has something left to give.
A point in the second half, but a little before the end, is the most efficient place to really get your head down. Obviously mountains, headwinds, and other riders can throw a spanner in the works, but the principal remains sound, just be prepared to adapt.
Fast and dirty training
If you want to get fast you need to invest energy, but not necessarily time. Assuming a moderate level of fitness you’re better doing short and sharp efforts than racking up potentially pointless base miles.
High intensity interval sessions or threshold efforts, where you hold the maximum pace you can sustain for an hour, have a disproportionate effect of boosting performance compared to longer rides.
However these sessions need to be approached fully rested and be completed without shirking. Get yourself a turbo and do a short but horrible session mid-week and you’ll be recovered to ride or race by the weekend.
While this might lead to slightly unbalanced fitness you’ll be more likely to stick to the programme and get results than with a more time-intensive model.
Marginal gains
Aka getting better at all the little things. As you ride more you’ll dial down your own approach. Keep a spreadsheet and log all the things you want to do better next time.
Selected entries in mine include; ‘don’t turn up hungover’, ‘bring warm clothes for after’, ‘arrive in plenty of time’, ‘it’s better to be too warm than too hot’, ‘clean bikes are good for morale’, ‘eat properly’, ‘stretch your back before racing’, ‘glue your glasses in place’, and, ‘flapjacks beat energy bars’.
Having everything as you like it and feeling confident in your methods will give you a big mental boost too.